Technically is heliotropin the synthetic fragrance that replicates the scent of the heliotrope flower (also called vanilla flower or solstice). Heliotropin is a member of the aldehyde family and was first discovered in 1885. The fragrance brilliantly copies the powdery, almond and vanilla nuances of the beautiful violet heliotrope flower.
As with some other ingredients, the use of heliotrope/heliotropin has recently been immensely restricted by International Fragrance Association (IFRA) regulations, and thus some iconic fragrances heavily based on heliotrope - such as L'Artisan Parfumeur's glorious Jour de Fête - have sadly been discontinued as a result. To counteract the severe limitation of the fragrance, some fragrance suppliers have created accords to serve as substitutes for the much-used heliotrope. One such replacement fragrance is Heliotropex N from IFF. According to the "perfumer's apprentice site", Heliotropex N has ideal substitute properties when used in a 15% concentration.
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